MISSES TURNER COURT DRESS MAKERS 151 STREET
White kimono fabric of figured “shibori” silk satin; embroidery of wisteria, chrysanthemum, peony, and Chinese fan motifs in metallic threads; wrapped buttons with Japanese “tomoemon”-like motif on bodice (only bodice and overskirt sur
This dress was remade from a Japanese kimono in London. Some traces of the original kimono seams remain in the textile. The underskirt is missing, but it is thought that an underskirt made of a different fabric was combined with this garment. There are some other indications of missing original ornaments.
In the late 19th century kimonos and textiles from Japan captured of the interest of many people in Western countries. Women in America and Europe made dresses from Japanese kimono fabrics and sometimes unstitched kimonos to make new dresses. They also wore kimonos as indoor wear. They especially favored kimonos for women in the highly ranked warrior families at the end of the Edo Period, like the source material for this dress.
Inventory Number(s): AC8938 93-28-1AB
DOUCET 21 RUE DE LA PAIX PARIS
Ivory silk ”crêpe de Chine”, stencil printed of bamboo motif and hand painted of sparrow motif by Yuzen process of dyeing: silk chiffon fichu: puffed sleeves with chiffon frill at cuffs.
Day dress in yoryu (silk ”crêpe de Chine”) broadloom fabric made in Japan. The lightweight material with typical Japanese motifs has been made into a dress in line with the fashions of the time. This fascinating garment demonstrates the interest that Doucet, the luxury Paris clothing house, had in Japanese influence.
With the Japonisme trend, after the Paris Exposition of 1867, Japanese kimono, or kimono fabric repurposed as dresses or coats became a sight in the 1880s. The export of Japanese silk weaves grew rapidly in about 1887, exporting broadwoven fabric. The textile used in this dress is likely to have been manufactured specifically for export. The yoryu fabric made of this dress uses two different Yuzen dyeing techniques: stencil printing for the bamboo, and hand-painting using gojiru for the sparrows. The combination of bamboo and sparrows is a frequent motif in Japanese arts and crafts.
Maison Doucet opened in Paris in 1875. Together with maison Worth and maison Pingat, it was one of the best-known Paris houses in the second half of the 19th century. Worth became very popular outside France, whereas Doucet was a particular favorite of Paris lady. Designer Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) had a deep knowledge of fine arts, and was quick to pick up the Japonisme trend. In addition to being a couturier, he was known as a art collector, acquiring new art such as Picasso’s Les Demoiselles d ’Avignon before it was appreciated by the general art market, and also collecting Japanese ceramics and lacquerware.
KCI’s collection has a number of examples of clothing by Doucet inspired by Japonisme.
Inventory Number(s): AC10445 2001-4AC
Kyoto Costume Institute Tea Gown
Pink seigou dress; gray jabot and plastron of yoryu (seigou and yoryu are Japanese textiles); Piedmontèse pleat at back; medieval-like hanging sleeves; lining of habutae silk machine-quilted with cotton.
This tea gown was made in Japan to an order for Western market. Its shape is a mixture of details of the 18th century style and the medieval style, which was revived at the end of the 19th century. It is made of taffeta, known as “seigo” in Japan, and embroidered with chrysanthemum flowers in a Japanese embroidery technique known as “nikuirinui”.
A tea gown is an elegant hostess’ dress used as informal, indoor wear from the late 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Women could loosen their tight corset to wear a tea gown. Many famous fashion houses in Paris introduced luxurious tea gowns decorated with laces and frills, which were more popular than the more practical ones made, for instance, by Liberty & Co. in London. Liberty & Co. was founded in 1875, and started importing and selling silk fabrics and indoor wear from Japan. In 1890 they opened a branch at Yokohama, Japan, where they worked with Japanese manufacturers to manufacture dresses and meet the demand. Although no labels remain, it is highly likely from Liberty & Co.
Inventory Number(s): AC6993 91-12-14
Just got my new roster, I can cross Tokyo off my list (actually after the month of May I can cross it off three times!). I only need a New York and a Hong Kong to check this list off.
Now I need I figure out what on Earth to do in Tokyo!!!!!!!! Any suggestions? I will be there three separate days. I want to go to Disney one day and definitely the Alice in Wonderland cafe!
Don’t worry everyone! I’m still alive and flying! I’ve just had a ridiculous busy roster this month. I fly back to Dubai and have about 24 hours off before I fly back out again. I finished the six day Syd-Akl sector and came home to find actual dust in my room! I’m loving every moment of it but I miss you guys! Now that I’m settled in I’m going to start picking back up on posting. Not as much as before but just a little here and there. :)
I cannot believe that tomorrow I will see this painting. There are so many old friends waiting for me at the Alte Pinakothek in Munich and strangers I’ve never met.
Being a flight attendant means I’m privy to secrets that people don’t normally share. Desires and dreams, things they want to see or things they are too afraid to see. A lot of things happen when you are 36,000 feet in the air and sometimes people just want to talk. Something I talk to people a lot about are their bucket lists. Places they want to travel, mountains to climb. I have one of those also but the best conversations are the ones where strangers talk about their separate bucket list for art. Things you have to see with your own eyes.
Which is why tomorrow is so exciting for me. I can cross off entire sections. I spent my entire childhood studying these masterpieces and it’s no longer enough to only see them captured in a book. I have to stand before them and on those rare occasions I have to stand and cry before them. Sometimes I have to whisper thank you to them for seeing me through those dark teenage times, for guiding me, giving me strength, and for teaching me that beauty absolutely lies in the eye of the beholder.