My 1860s mourning undergarments took a grand total of 4 days to finish. I am working on the bodice lining toile right now! I’m hoping to finish this up early next week and prepare for my final costume for the Degree Show!
“The most intriguing duel fought between women, and the sole one that featured exposed breasts, took place in August 1892 in Verduz, the capitol of Liechtenstein, between Princess Pauline Metternich and the Countess Kielmannsegg. It has gone down in history as the first “emancipated duel” because all parties involved, including the principals and their seconds were female… Before the proceedings began, the baroness pointed out that many insignificant injuries in duels often became septic due to strips of clothing being driven into the wound by the point of a sword. To counter this danger she prudently suggested that both parties should fight stripped of any garments above the waist. Certainly, Baroness Lubinska was ahead of her time, taking an even more radical take on the (at the time) widely dismissed theories of British surgeon Joseph Lister, who in 1870 revolutionized surgical procedures with the introduction of antiseptic.
With the precautions Baroness Lubinska recommended, the topless women duelists were less likely to suffer from an infection; indeed, it was a smart idea to fight semiclad. Given the practicality of the baroness’ suggestion and the “emancipated” nature of the duel, it was agreed that the women would disrobe—after all, there would be no men present to ogle them. For the women, the decision to unbutton the tops of their dresses was not sexual; it was simply a way of preventing a duel of first blood from becoming a duel to the death.
…
It is humorous that most recounts of this historic event fail to mention two important things: the winner of the duel (Princess Metternich) and the reason why the women came to arms in the first place—they disagreed over the floral arrangements for an upcoming musical exhibition.”
The first rule of topless victorian ladies swordfighting club is that topless victorian ladies swordfighting club is not to be mentioned in mixed company.
The second rule is naught but an emphatic repeating of the first.
I’M TELLING YOU PINK IS HIDEOUS!
/WHIPS OUT SWORD.
TAKE OFF YOUR SHIRT. WE’RE SETTLING THIS WITH A DUEL.
Seriously some of the comments on this thread are epic.

I’m mixing and matching things from the Met again!

Off topic: Construction details!
I. Need. This.
1825-30
The V&A has this to say: The lightweight fabric and upturned, semi-circular brim of this fashionable bonnet are typical of the late 1820s. During this period, many bonnets were unlined and cane was frequently used to shape the brim and crown. This example is trimmed with a single bow at the back of the crown, but would originally have had wide ribbon ties and probably more bows at the base of the brim. All fashionable headwear had to accommodate and accentuate the latest hairstyle. In this bonnet, the upturned brim sat behind a fashionable row of curls on the brow, and the bonnet crown covered the rest of the hair gathered into a bun at the back of the head.
(Source: collections.vam.ac.uk)
A sneak peek of my costume that will be shown at Buckingham Palace on May 18th. The entire front panel has been hand beaded based on the pattern present on the original garment and a few lace appliques that have then been hand beaded. I had my second to last fitting last night and I am so thrilled with how it has turned out.
I’m home from the Ball!
You may have noticed that I ended up reworking my gown from Bath but to change it up just a little more I made an evening spencer to go over the gown. I will try to post more about this costume later this week on The Mended Soul!
Twelve tear-shaped sections of ruby, diamond and pearl set in gold form this unique tiara with enamel portraits at back. Presented to Queen Victoria & placed among Indian Collection belonging to Crown by King George V in 1924.

Evening dress, ca. 1884–86
American or European
Silk
Gift of Mrs. J. Randall Creel, 1963 (C.I.63.23.3a,b)
The Met says: After a period of literal descent down the back of the body, the bustle achieved its greatest extension by 1885. It was almost perpendicular to the back and heavily draped and trimmed. The 1880s versions were as padded and heavily embellished as a drawing-room hassock of the period. It was a popular conceit that these bustles could support an entire tea service. To sustain the greater weight of the 1880s gowns, light and flexible infrastructures were created with flexible materials—wire, cane, whalebone—held together by canvas tapes or inserted into quilted channels. The torso above the projection of the bustle was further articulated into an hourglass shape, so much so that it appeared to be encased in a piece of armor.
Seriously? This fan just popped up on my pinterest dashboard and I thought hold up! That looks familiar?
That’s because mine is practically identical (keeping in mind that there are some decorative variations to the paintings). Edit: Second thought not exactly identical but there are enough similarities to make me happy.
The top photo belong to the Fitzwilliam Museum and the second photo is the one in my collection.
The museum has the object listed as: “Chinese feather brisé fan. Goose (?) feather fan with ivory sticks and guards. The front is painted with blue peonies and pheasants, the reverse, less detailed blue peonies (?). The tops of the lower sticks (gorge) and guards are decorated with a gilt relief. Metal rivet (?).”
My favorite part is their date: circa 1815 to 1825
(Source: fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk)
This portrait was brought to my attention yesterday and although I don’t see the resemblance, the thought of looking anything like this lovely lady is so flattering!
Rembrandt Peale (American painter, 1778-1860) Rosalba Peale 1820
About ten minutes ago there was a knock on my door from the Royal Post. He cheerfully handed me a package and I came back in completely curious as to what was in my hands. I don’t normally get packages unless I’ve been naughty on ebay (Scouts honour I have been very good lately).
When I opened the package I wanted to cry. I truly am blessed with the kindest friends. One of the ladies that has adopted me in the UK found this beautiful length of fabric that had my name woven in the fibers.
I am now happy to say that I have a new gown in the making for The Horncastle Regency Festival in May! For more information please join the facebook group here or on the website here.
I’ll be posting a bit more information on the type of gowns I am planning for the Festival on The Mended Soul in the coming months but if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask me! I would love to see some of you there!
This should be totally easy but my brain has got the Walking Dead and since I can’t apparate to my locker at Uni I need help please!
I need a small list of theatres, operas, films, or literature (preferably set in the 18th century or the Victorian era) that use a mask or a masquerade or some sort of a disguise as symbolism. I have an entire chapter devoted to analysis and I can’t find my notes.
I’ve got Phantom and Jekyll & Hyde (the lyrics are handy for what I need), Dorian Gray (The portrait is my interpretation), and then my brain won’t work with me any further. I had such a long list and I can’t remember anything on it. Help please?
Edit: I can’t even begin to thank you all enough! I am going to owe you guys majorly by the end of this paper!
I was very briefly trying to explain the re-emergence of fancy dress during Victoria’s reign to my mom so I could bounce a few ideas off of her. Then I realized I should probably write a history book one day.
I finally updated The Mended Soul! Sorry it’s taken such a long time to do so. It’s just been hectic here! Unfortunately I was in such a hurry to finish the tea gown and the ball gown that I was unable to take photos like I normally do. I’m very sorry about that but I am working on another ball gown for the Jane Austen Ball in Bath and I have made sure that the camera is with me at all times.
I’m considering posting a quick tutorial on my short Regency stays if that would be interesting to anyone. I was also in a hurry to complete those so I only have a few photos but I can easily explain and draw those steps out. I’m also going to do a post about my strapped petticoat using extant examples I’ve tracked down in the past few months.
My only concern is about the format I’m using to post my costumes and I would like to kindly ask for advice from my followers. I’m torn on how I should be posting costume updates. Do you mind seeing the photos of the costumes on The Ornamented Being and then another post later on to let you know I’ve gone into more detail on the making process with a link to The Mended Soul? Or should I just update my tumblr to let everyone know I’ve updated my making journal? I don’t want to constantly bore everyone with photos of what I’m making. Thoughts anyone?