The Ornamented Being

I do believe I have just fallen head over heels in love! Look at that bodice! I’ve never seen anything quite like that ribbon work (?) before.

House of Worth  (French, 1858–1956)

I’ll end here with one of my favorite Worth gowns.

circa 1898–1900

“A superb example of dressmaking from the House of Worth, this dress exhibits the aesthetic of the last years of the nineteenth century. The fashionable reverse S-curve silhouette of the dress and the dramatic scroll pattern of the textile reflect the influence of the Art Nouveau movement. The striking graphic juxtaposition of the black velvet on an ivory satin ground creates the illusion of ironwork, with curving tendrils emphasizing the fashionable shape of the garment. In order to achieve this effect, the textile was woven à la disposition, with the intent that each piece would become a specific part of the dress. With this technique, the design of the fabric is intrinsic to the design of the dress.”

Court Presentation Gown

c. 1885

“This grand dress was worn for a presentation to Princess Alexandra of Denmark (1844-1925) at the court of Queen Victoria (1819-1901). Being presented to royalty was an aspiration for many Americans at the time and justifies the purchase of such an elaborate gown for such a situation… . “

circa 1888

I love the evening bodice!

“ The bustle silhouette, although primarily associated with the second half of the 19th century, originated in earlier fashions as a simple bump at the back of the dress, such as with late 17th-early 18th century mantuas and late 18th- early 19th century Empire dresses.  . .”

circa 1888

“ … Styles of this period were often taken from historical inspiration and covered in various types of trim and lace. Accessories were petite and allowed for the focus on the large elaborate gowns. Around 1874, the style altered and the skirts began to hug the thighs in the front while the bustle at the back was reduced to a natural flow from the waist to the train. This period was marked by darker colors, asymmetrical drapery, oversize accessories and elongated forms created by full-length coats… “

. . Sorry but it was begging to be done! Call it a blend of the old and new.

Dress circa 1880

Boots and brasserie circa 2011

c. 1890

 ”In 1870 Worth became the sole proprietor of the business. At his shop, Worth fashioned completed creations which he then showed to clients on live models. Clients could then order their favorites according to their own specifications. This method is the origin of haute couture. Worth designed gowns which were works of art that implemented a perfect play of colors and textures created by meticulously chosen textiles and trims. The sheer volume of the textiles he employed on each dress is testimony to his respect and support of the textile industry. Worth’s creative output maintained its standard and popularity throughout his life. The business continued under the direction of his sons, grandsons and great-grandsons through the first half of the twentieth century.”

This is the famous evil face dress. Of course that isn’t the name of the gown but when I look at the skirt I see a face!

(Source: metmuseum.org)

Aha! I knew I had a photo of the actual dress being worn! It took some digging but voila!

The met has just seriously outdone themselves with the photography this time!

This is a Charles Worth evening gown from c. 1889.