DOUCET 21 RUE DE LA PAIX PARIS
Ivory silk ”crêpe de Chine”, stencil printed of bamboo motif and hand painted of sparrow motif by Yuzen process of dyeing: silk chiffon fichu: puffed sleeves with chiffon frill at cuffs.
Day dress in yoryu (silk ”crêpe de Chine”) broadloom fabric made in Japan. The lightweight material with typical Japanese motifs has been made into a dress in line with the fashions of the time. This fascinating garment demonstrates the interest that Doucet, the luxury Paris clothing house, had in Japanese influence.
With the Japonisme trend, after the Paris Exposition of 1867, Japanese kimono, or kimono fabric repurposed as dresses or coats became a sight in the 1880s. The export of Japanese silk weaves grew rapidly in about 1887, exporting broadwoven fabric. The textile used in this dress is likely to have been manufactured specifically for export. The yoryu fabric made of this dress uses two different Yuzen dyeing techniques: stencil printing for the bamboo, and hand-painting using gojiru for the sparrows. The combination of bamboo and sparrows is a frequent motif in Japanese arts and crafts.
Maison Doucet opened in Paris in 1875. Together with maison Worth and maison Pingat, it was one of the best-known Paris houses in the second half of the 19th century. Worth became very popular outside France, whereas Doucet was a particular favorite of Paris lady. Designer Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) had a deep knowledge of fine arts, and was quick to pick up the Japonisme trend. In addition to being a couturier, he was known as a art collector, acquiring new art such as Picasso’s Les Demoiselles d ’Avignon before it was appreciated by the general art market, and also collecting Japanese ceramics and lacquerware.
KCI’s collection has a number of examples of clothing by Doucet inspired by Japonisme.
Inventory Number(s): AC10445 2001-4AC
Kyoto Costume Institute Tea Gown
Pink seigou dress; gray jabot and plastron of yoryu (seigou and yoryu are Japanese textiles); Piedmontèse pleat at back; medieval-like hanging sleeves; lining of habutae silk machine-quilted with cotton.
This tea gown was made in Japan to an order for Western market. Its shape is a mixture of details of the 18th century style and the medieval style, which was revived at the end of the 19th century. It is made of taffeta, known as “seigo” in Japan, and embroidered with chrysanthemum flowers in a Japanese embroidery technique known as “nikuirinui”.
A tea gown is an elegant hostess’ dress used as informal, indoor wear from the late 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Women could loosen their tight corset to wear a tea gown. Many famous fashion houses in Paris introduced luxurious tea gowns decorated with laces and frills, which were more popular than the more practical ones made, for instance, by Liberty & Co. in London. Liberty & Co. was founded in 1875, and started importing and selling silk fabrics and indoor wear from Japan. In 1890 they opened a branch at Yokohama, Japan, where they worked with Japanese manufacturers to manufacture dresses and meet the demand. Although no labels remain, it is highly likely from Liberty & Co.
Inventory Number(s): AC6993 91-12-14
Photographed by Matthew Lyn for Sharp’s November cover story, Kill Your Darlings star Daniel Radcliffe dons sharp sartorial styles. Whether in a bow-tie and cardigan or turtleneck and coat, Radcliffe charms in a wardrobe styled by Randy Smith (Judy Inc).
Harry’s all grown up.
Lost my source (sorry!) 1862 Costume Ball. Photographer: Joseph Albert (Don’t know who originally found the source but cheers!)
2. Portrait of two ladies at Märchenball von “Jung-München” (one of the three great art societies in Munich) in costume. Photographed by Franz Hanfstaengl. c. 1862
3. Portrait of participant of the Märchenball von “Jung-München” (one of the three great art societies in Munich) in costume. Photographed by Franz Hanfstaengl. c. 1862
4. Anna Pavlova Dressed in costume for The fairy doll - photograph by Matzene Studio - c. possibly 1916
Metropolitan Museum of Art
This dress is in keeping with the interest in historical revivals popular in the 19th century. The long puffed sleeves refer to both Elizabethan and early 19th-century styles. The one-piece construction indicates it was probably intended for formal reception at home.