The Ornamented Being
Ornamented: -verb: Adorn; beautify. Be·ing: -noun: Fulfillment of possibilities; essential completeness.
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c. 1865-70
Summary description
Fanchon bonnet - Made from yellow satin and silk georgette in rows of box pleats across the bonnet and lined with yellow georgette. It is constructed on a wire frame. The bonnet is edged with machine blond-style lace. There is a satin ribbon bow centre front. There is a bar decorated with cornflowers, poppies, daisies and ferns of coloured, stiffened cotton and feathers. There are yellow satin ribbon ties and false ties of georgette and satin held with satin and lace bow at the throat. There are narrow ties of cream silk fringed ribbon. See SNO.TC.1123/1125. (female)
Provenance
Charles Paget Wade Collection, Snowshill Manor
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I plan on being ridiculously busy this weekend so for Monday I’ll continue on with the shoe theme but move to heels. I think Monday’s post will most likely end up being two days if people aren’t sick of me posting! I’m thinking about starting off with chopines, any objections there? Who knows I might even throw in a pair of 17th century heels for fun!
I’m also planning on branching out into my favorite modern heels. GASP! What is that? Ornamented Being is going post something past 1920!!!! (On very rare occasions I’ll post something from the 30s or the 50s but I draw the line there!)
Here is a teaser for Monday. This pair of shoes happen to be my absolute favorite heels from the Victorian era. Out of 64 years of fashion these have always had my heart.
“The ankle-strap or ankle-tie shoe, as illustrated by this pair of evening shoes, was worn primarily in the late 1870s and 1880s. Slippers with comparatively high backs were a trend from the 1870s, and it seems that the feature of the peaked or raised quarter may have led naturally to the ankle-tie style. Although novel and fashionable at the time, the style does not appear to have been very widely worn. Satin boots were widely worn for evening in the 1860s and early 1870s, and this hybrid style can be seen as a compromise between the boot and the slipper.”
I like to play Polyvore with images and when I do that I ignore time periods. These two were begging to be posted together!
“The style of this hat is based on men’s headwear. The crown shape was popular in the 1880s. The hat matches well with the English tailor-made suit, a form that gained popularity at this time because it accommodated an increasingly active lifestyle. The medium, beaver was a sought after-material for millinery in the 19th century, preferred for its luster and elegant appearance.”
Both pieces live at the Met (where I wish I could live also!)
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I assume this is a Trouvais style photo?
“Napoleonic bicorne”
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c. 1855
“Mentioned in Charles Dickens’s travel account, “Pictures from Italy”, these small straw hats were worn in the town of La Spezia in northern Italy. They were purely ornamental and worn tilted on the forehead, often accompanied by a net snood. La Spezia remains today the chief naval port as well as a commercial shipping center.”
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As I mentioned early Michael O’Connor decided to use extant pieces which is why so many people fell in love with this bonnet.
Why re-create when you can just use the extant piece?
“… Fortunately for O’Connor, there was no shortage of reference materials. He researched all the children’s clothing at a children’s museum in London, and he even found an American Web site that had block prints of original 19th-century patterns, which he ended up using to make Jane Eyre’s final dress—topping it with a shawl original to the time and a bonnet made of straw from the period. “The lining, the buttons, the stitching, everything was totally researched. I always say, ‘Is there a reference for that, is that something they did?’ And if people say [they] don’t know, then I say we can’t do it—there’s so much information from that time that there’s no excuse not to have it.””
”Mia Wasikowska’s Jane Eyre (arriving at Rochester’s estate, Thornfield) wears a dress “made from an imported, printed textile from the U.S.,” and a bonnet “made from beautiful, vintage hat straw [which] we were gifted,” says the Oscar-winning designer.”
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Frederick Hendrik Kaemmerer – The Argument
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![C. 1776-83
The Met says: According to the donor, this ensemble was worn by Obedeak [sic] Herbert, a Continental Naval Admiral of the Revolutionary War. This form of jacket, the tail coat, persisted first, as men’s everyday wear and, later, as formal attire throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. The epaulettes retain sense of delicacy and refinement as handmade objects. The silk on the underside is padded and sewn into a roll at the edge to enhance the shape of the tassels as they fall over the shoulders. The tape on the other end is meant to tie into corresponding studs on the shoulders of the jacket. The phrase on the medallion of the bicorne, “E Pluribus Unum” (translated as “Out of Many, One”) was submitted by the committee Congress as part of a design for the seal for the United States of America in 1776, which, upon revisions, was passed as the official seal in 1782. The phrase was considered the motto of the United States until 1956 when it was replaced with the motto, “In God We Trust.”](http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lnsdjoxXk51qegasto1_500.jpg)
C. 1776-83
The Met says: According to the donor, this ensemble was worn by Obedeak [sic] Herbert, a Continental Naval Admiral of the Revolutionary War. This form of jacket, the tail coat, persisted first, as men’s everyday wear and, later, as formal attire throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. The epaulettes retain sense of delicacy and refinement as handmade objects. The silk on the underside is padded and sewn into a roll at the edge to enhance the shape of the tassels as they fall over the shoulders. The tape on the other end is meant to tie into corresponding studs on the shoulders of the jacket. The phrase on the medallion of the bicorne, “E Pluribus Unum” (translated as “Out of Many, One”) was submitted by the committee Congress as part of a design for the seal for the United States of America in 1776, which, upon revisions, was passed as the official seal in 1782. The phrase was considered the motto of the United States until 1956 when it was replaced with the motto, “In God We Trust.”
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Mme. Pauline
c. 1915
Ahaha oh my goodness poor birds!!!!
