The Ornamented Being
Ornamented: -verb: Adorn; beautify. Be·ing: -noun: Fulfillment of possibilities; essential completeness.
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So proud and honoured to have an article published in the Autumn 2012 Costume Society of the UK Newsletter.
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I spent the last week being taught to scale Janet Arnold’s patterns by those who knew her best. I was taught how to look at a tiny flat drawing, to draft, and then re-create the red Kyoto stays by the great master himself. We ended the week by drafting and re-creating Queen Elizabeth’s effigy panniers.
I can’t even begin to express how much of a privilege it has been to be taught by Luca Costigliolo ( the man behind The Borgias etc.) and I can promise that whenever I take a stitch I forever remember “Precise! Precise!”
It took me two hours of fighting London rush hour to get to class every day and then two hours of fighting rush hour again to get back. By the time I walked in the door my bed was a siren’s call. I haven’t kept up with my email, facebook, or The Mended Soul. I will try to be better about posting this week but I make no promises!
This week will be a bit busy because I am leaving for Southampton on Friday for the Titanic Memorial Cruise. Lizzy and I will be giving two small presentations on 1912 fashion on Saturday so if you are there, drop by and say hello, you can’t miss us! We will be traveling in full costume from London to Southampton. The entire weekend will be spent in 1912 clothing!
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Summary description
“Jacket - Silk tissue. Large multi-coloured design of flowers and leaves with a stylised framework. Damasked ground in bunting yellow. 1711, French or English. Bodice and upper sleeves lined cream silk, lower sleeves lined bleached linen. Fitted bodice, hip-length pleated skirt. Wide front opening (over waistcoat). Pointed waistline centre back. Skirt pleated centre back, gored and pleated at sides. 2 small pocket slits. Sleeves set in, long curbed at elbow, opening at wrist. Lining silk mounted onto lining before construction. All edges trimmed with wide pleated band of white patterned net edged with coloured silk ribbon. The same net ruched covers the elbows (originally the cuff?). Evidence of pinnings. Sleeves have been lengthened from elbow, and made more narrow from the top. Silk very similar to portrait by A. Belle, now in Victoria and Albert Museum, illustrated in Peter Thornton ‘Baroque and Rococco Silks’ plate 49B. Cf Nancy Bradfield ‘Costume in Detail’ p. 12, Janet Arnold ‘Patterns of Fashion’ p. 26. (female)”
Snowshill Wade Costume Collection, Gloucestershire (Accredited Museum)
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I was about to say I’ve seen this in Janet Arnold’s book!
Summary description
Jacket; Half robe - Silk damask with design of narrow stripes broken by flower sprays. Cambridge blue on cream ground. Bodice and sleeves lined bleached linen. High waisted with hip-length skirt. Bodice with wrapover front with ties from side-seam. Low neckline caught at corners with silk cord and self-covered button. Small haped back of 4 sections. skirt divided at sides, falling straight in front, pleated side back and centre back. Sleeves set in, fullness at head, one seam, elbow length, shaped at elbow. Silk and lining joined together before assembly. Lining separate from bodice from side to form an inner bodice. Silk cord trim round neck and sleeve edge. Sewn on self-fabric tie sides to front. Left-hand skirt front replaced with pale blue corded silk. Comments - Anne Buck - cut from a gown of abut 1780? Cf Janet Arnold ‘Patterns of Fashion I’ p44 (female)
Snowshill Wade Costume Collection, Gloucestershire (Accredited Museum)
c. 1790-1800
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Sounds like a new project for me.
Summary description
Hooded jacket - Made of stone white silk satin, quilted overall with matching thread. 0.125 inch (3 mm) band of bright green at selvedge. bodicee and stomacher fronts lined with linen. bodicee lining fitted with 7 bones. Front edges and stomacher also boned. Hip length jacket with fitted body and pleated skirt - cut in one. bodice front has wide revers with centre-front opening and stomacher pieces with tabs. Centre-back seam and 2 underarm seams, opening out into wide box pleats at waist. Elbow length sleeves with deep pointed ruffle. Hood has one seam centre-back. Pleated into back neck. Skirt has partial border of shallow swags with flowers and leaves, and the sleeves flounches are quilted overall in similar desings. Fastens at the centre front with 10 hook and eyes, 8 and 6 respectively being original, steel (possibly tin plated) wire, with flattened tips to the hooks. Jacket could have been made up from another petticoat as motifs are assymetrical. cf Janet Arnold ‘Patterns of Fashion’ p 30; Nancy Bradfield ‘Costume in Detail’ p21.
Snowshill Wade Costume Collection, Gloucestershire (Accredited Museum)
c. 1745-60
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Circa 1873
This reminds me of the Janet Arnold pattern!
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Just a quick work in progress of the Regency dress. Its loosely based on Janet Arnold’s Morning Dress - c. 1798-1805 pattern with a different sleeve and bib.
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I just thought I would share with everyone my latest project! I’ve decided to re-create the Polonaise from Snowshill Manor (c. 1770-85) seen in Patterns of Fashion by Janet Arnold.
I’m sure I will hate myself by the end of this project because I’ve decided to hand sew the entire thing to be as historically accurate as possible.
*hides in terror*
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Does anyone have Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion 1660-1860? If you do could you possibly (read: please, please, PLEASE, PLEASE) scan me page 38? ? I need to see the completed polonaise. I brought the photocopied pattern and I forgot my bag of books in at home.
I have page 39 which is the pattern. It says A Polonaise With detachable Embroidered Lawn Ruffles C 1770-85
They are in my nice pretty I love Mr. Darcy bag with about five different post it notes reminding me to not forget to take this bag.
Funny how life works right?
Thanks so much!!!xx
elizabethrichards: YOU ARE AMAZING! Thank you so so much!!!!!!
