The Ornamented Being

I study historic costuming and in class the other day we were having a discussion on our favorite designers. When it came to my turn I confessed that I couldn’t pick between Worth, Lucille, Callot Soeurs, Paquin, Lanvin, and Doucet, it’s just too difficult! I received so many blank stares in return.

That aside Doucet will always have a place in my heart. This dress dates from c. 1905-07 (from the Met)  and is typical of the Belle Époque style. 

(Source: metmuseum.org)

Dress (Robe de Style)

House of Lanvin  (French, founded 1889)

Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)

ca. 1927

Met

As one fashion commentator wrote in 1925, “The robe de style has a persevering nature. Fashions may come and fashions may go, but it keeps on forever.” 

(Source: blog.fidmmuseum.org)

Robe de style
c.1923
Gift of Ms. Sandra Coleman
S2005.851.1

“The construction of the robe de style is quite straightforward, as the silhouette does not require careful fitting and shaping of the garment. Visual interest is created by the appliqued flowers of pink silk. The flowers are accentuated by leaves and trailing vines made of clear beads and chenille thread. The bodice is dotted with numerous applied faux crystals. This type of ornamentation is very typical of the robe de style, which was usually of a solid color fabric embellished with beads, ribbon or embroidery in bold, eye-catching designs. Taffeta was a favorite fabric choice, as its inherent stiffness accentuated the bell-like shape of the skirt.”

(Source: blog.fidmmuseum.org)

Dress (Robe de Style)

House of Lanvin  (French, founded 1889)

Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)

spring/summer 1924

Met

Dress (Robe de Style)

House of Lanvin  (French, founded 1889)

Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)

c. 1922

Met

Dress (Robe de Style)

House of Lanvin  (French, founded 1889)

c. 1926

Dress (Robe de Style)

House of Lanvin  (French, founded 1889)

Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)

fall/winter 1926–27

Met

Dress (Robe de Style)

House of Lanvin  (French, founded 1889)

Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)

fall/winter 1926

The Met says:  

Jeanne Lanvin was apprenticed to a milliner and a dressmaker before opening her own millinery shop in 1889. She expanded into dressmaking when her clients began asking for the ensembles in which she adorned her daughter, Marguerite di Pietro (1897-1958). Her style embodied the femininity of youth in a most modern way with meticulous and relatively sparse surface embellishments and robe de style silhouettes, which could be worn by women of all ages. Lanvin’s aptitude can be seen through her house’s 1920s expansion into fur, lingerie, men’s wear, household goods and perfume. She even had the forethought to open her own dye factory which produced the inimitable ‘Lanvin blue.’ The longevity of the House of Lanvin can be credited to her attentive management and design standards from its inception. The robe de style, which is often associated with Lanvin, is characterized by its dropped waist and wide skirts designed to resemble court dresses of the 18th century. The style safely hid the figure, which made it comfortable for clients of any age and shape. This particular robe de style’s uncomplicated bold decoration and sculptural silhouette is unmistakably iconic of the 1920s haute couture style of Lanvin.