The Ornamented Being

Court Dress 1810, French

I apologize I dont recall where this is from. I want to say Kent State but I really can’t remember.

The Duchess of d’Angouleme by Baron Antoine-Jean Gros, 1817 France,

The Bowes Museum

c. 1820s

NT

c. 1790

The Met says: The last quarter of the eighteenth-century was simultaneously one of the most ornamental periods in men’s clothing and the dawn of austerity in men’s fashion. The French, notorious for overstated luxury in the clothing of their elite classes during this period, employed extensive silk and bead embroidery on men’s tailcoats and waistcoats until about 1790. With the official beginning of the French Revolution in 1789, the surface ornamentation on men’s and women’s clothing alike began to decline. The middle and lower classes took leave of this ostentation earlier, adhering to the English fashions of unornamented wool or cotton clothing. With the lower classes becoming ever stronger in France, and Anglomania becoming increasingly popular all over Europe, men’s fashion soon adopted elements of the dress of the Incroyables.Incroyables were typically young members of the emerging French wealthy bourgeois class of the post-revolutionary 1790s who affected a look of carelessness in combination with exaggerated styles, thus renouncing French style. Features are mussed hair, large hats, and more body–conscious clothes than were considered decent. The clothing was considered extreme, but was characterized by both a hint of Classicism and a tailored simplicity that found congruence with English fashions.

This ensemble characterizes the dress of anIncroyable, exhibiting the exaggeratedly high, somewhat tight neckline of the Incroyablestailcoat, and the cutaway coat front and tails that became emblematic of the fashions of the Directoire Period. The fabric of the suit is in pristine condition; the flamboyant coloration, yet unadorned modesty of this luxurious textile represents the reserved elegance of the FrenchIncroyable. This piece contains cultural and political nuances, dating from a period of great social turmoil in Europe, and foreshadows what becomes fashionable dress for the upper classes in the decades to come.

So, still a no go on the green theme. I’m trying to finish up a few projects. Apologies all!

Indian Muslin Dress with Embroidered Leaves. French - around 1810.

Met

This past week has been overwhelmingly wonderful.

My internship work with the Tudor Tailor has been assigned, I’ve been invited to give a lecture on 1912 fashion in Southampton, and this summer I will be working at Colonial Williamsburg alongside some of the most inspirational women in the industry. Then I found out about this award? It’s just all too much. When I sat there crying in class on Wednesday after opening the email from Colonial Williamsburg my lecturer told me that “Life has a funny way of suddenly coming together every now and then to show you that this is where you are meant to be. The only direction to go now is up, so climb higher Lyze.”

I keep thinking I am going to wake up and find last week was a fantastical dream. When the results for the Your Wardrobe Unlock’d competition were announced I once again had to re-assure my teacher that these were tears of joy (and not fear over the project brief she was going through!). I feel so overwhelmed and blessed. I can’t put what I feel into words and thank you seems so small compared to the joy and gratitude I feel inside.

Please keep in mind the new competition themes have been decided! For more information please click here.

Europe, vers 1790 - Mus des Tissus de Lyon; Photo Pierre Verrier Altered 19th century

I have finally succumbed to peer pressure and created my own virtual atelier so that I can share my work with you.

The Mended Soul