The Ornamented Being
Ornamented: -verb: Adorn; beautify
Be·ing: -noun: Fulfillment of possibilities; essential completeness
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This is my Robe de Style and it’s very fragile! I was actually shocked at how heavy the lace is! It’s really heavy! I was worried about putting it on my mannequin because I didn’t want the dress to decide that after 92ish years it was tired of being attached! Happily everything stayed together!
The lace in the front is in wonderful condition but it’s shattering across the back. It’s turned to a lovely bronze colour due to age but under the waistband you can still see spots that show how bright the gold was at one time. Dresses from the 20s are infamous for using real precious metals during the weaving process and you can obviously feel the truth in that. I don’t mean to keep mentioning the weight but it’s the most surprising thing about the piece!
The decoration at the waist is fashioned from French silk ribbon and velvet flowers wrapped in real gold and silver threads. They still catch the light brilliantly! I had a small flashlight out looking at the stitching last night and they glow like stars. I can’t imagine what she would have looked like in her prime!
I’m not sure if you can tell but the orange, blue, and red flowers/berries are all covered in velvet. The belt snaps on and the hanging pieces at the front and back remind me of a tunic. The edges are slightly padded with the gold lamé.
Yesterday when I saw it in the shop I noticed something odd about the hem and when I got it home I realized someone had taken the skirt up. It’s pulled out on the side so the hem is originally 8” long but someone shortened the hem to 4”.
The gold gold bullion trim joining the gold lamé to the lace is also quite heavy! I was actually worried about the weight being the cause of the shattering around the join of the lace to the hem. The trim has faded to a bronze color due to age but like the lace there are a few spots where the stitching is out and you can see that it’s still a bright shiny gold.
The underdress is rose gold lamé woven with gold thread and it’s also very heavy! I think that has become the common theme of this dress! There is some shattering around the hem and the threads are coming loose so you can feel the texture of the individual threads. The inside of the dress was a lovely rose chiffon but it’s shattering so badly that pieces crumble under your fingertips.
The panniers are made into the dress and are just like 18th century panniers! There is a long piece of cotton tape on each side keeping the pannier shape. I want to say they are made of buckram but it’s so unusual because it’s soft but at the same time it’s stiff enough to keep the shape.
I’m just in awe of the piece! I think it’s the grandest item in my collection!
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1928 Boué Soeurs Court Presentation Dress Study photos belonging to Sacheverelle
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Court presentation dress of white net embroidered in silver cord over pink chiffon trimmed with silk ribbon flowers. French, 1928.
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Dress (Robe de Style)
House of Lanvin (French, founded 1889)
Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)
ca. 1927
Met
As one fashion commentator wrote in 1925, “The robe de style has a persevering nature. Fashions may come and fashions may go, but it keeps on forever.”
(Source: blog.fidmmuseum.org)
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Robe de style
c.1923
Gift of Ms. Sandra Coleman
S2005.851.1“The construction of the robe de style is quite straightforward, as the silhouette does not require careful fitting and shaping of the garment. Visual interest is created by the appliqued flowers of pink silk. The flowers are accentuated by leaves and trailing vines made of clear beads and chenille thread. The bodice is dotted with numerous applied faux crystals. This type of ornamentation is very typical of the robe de style, which was usually of a solid color fabric embellished with beads, ribbon or embroidery in bold, eye-catching designs. Taffeta was a favorite fabric choice, as its inherent stiffness accentuated the bell-like shape of the skirt.”
(Source: blog.fidmmuseum.org)
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“Overall view and detail of “Marjolaine, ” the quintessential robe de style of Lanvin. Apple green silk taffetas changeant is used to create an off-the-shoulder-drop-waist, full-skirted silhouette. 1920.”
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House of Lanvin (French, founded 1889)
Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)Dress (Robe de Style)
1920–25
Met
“Called a robe de style, the upper portion of the dress is slim and close-fitting, while the skirt is full and rather long. The fullness in the skirt is a result of built-in panniers at each hip. These built-in wire structures, shaped like small baskets, extend the line of the dress horizontally, emphasizing the hips. This look hearkens back to the 18th century, when panniers were worn on a regular basis by European and American women. This historic reference was noted by American fashion writers who often referred to the robe de style as a “quaint” or “period style” dress.”
Description from the FIDM blog here.
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Dress (Robe de Style)
House of Lanvin (French, founded 1889)
Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)
spring/summer 1924
Met
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Dress (Robe de Style)
House of Lanvin (French, founded 1889)
c. 1922
Met
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Dress (Robe de Style)
House of Lanvin (French, founded 1889)
Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946)
c. 1922
Met
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Robe Boué Soeurs. Hiver 1925–1926. Robe de style en dentelle rebrodée. Collections Galliera.
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Evening gown from Boué Soeurs, Paris c. 1923-25.
