I know I mentioned a Worth post but I feel like I’m long overdue to pay homage to one of my favorite things; the ocean. I’ll be posting a mixture of old and new posts to illustrate this theme so I apologize in advance if you recognize some of these.
Elie Saab Couture Spring Summer 2012
Rok (b) van donkergroen laken, slepend en met veel extra ruimte voor het rijden met een dameszadel, anoniem, ca. 1825 (www.rijksmuseum.nl)
I’m not sure I believe the date but I’ll go with it. Museums have so much on their hands, I think they can be forgiven for making a small typo here and there.
The Met says: It gradually became more acceptable for women to participate in sporting activities throughout the second half of the 19th century. Clothing requirements for most sporting remained strict towards retaining foundation garments such as corsets and bustle, which were thought to stabilize women’s frail and weak forms. This example would have been worn for tennis, yachting or general seaside walking. Striped textiles were fashionable for such activities, probably due to the nautical theme and their jaunty air which inspires vigor*. Although the silhouette remained the same, with the exception of the shorter, more maneuverable length, the trimmings were reduced. This is a striking example of this type of dress, which is fairly rare in museum collections. The bustle silhouette, although primarily associated with the second half of the 19th century, originated in earlier fashions as a simple bump at the back of the dress, such as with late 17th-early 18th century mantuas and late 18th- early 19th century Empire dresses. The full-blown bustle silhouette had its first Victorian appearance in the late 1860s, which started as fullness in skirts moving to the back of the dress. This fullness was drawn up in ties for walking that created a fashionable puff. This trendsetting puff expanded and was then built up with supports from a variety of different things such as horsehair, metal hoops and down. Styles of this period were often taken from historical inspiration and covered in various types of trim and lace. Accessories were petite and allowed for the focus on the large elaborate gowns. Around 1874, the style altered and the skirts began to hug the thighs in the front while the bustle at the back was reduced to a natural flow from the waist to the train. This period was marked by darker colors, asymmetrical drapery, oversize accessories and elongated forms created by full-length coats. Near the beginning of the 1880s the trends altered once again to include the bustle, this time it would reach its maximum potential with some skirts having the appearance of a full shelf at the back. The dense textiles preferred were covered in trimming, beadwork, puffs and bows to visually elevate them further. The feminine silhouette continued like this through 1889 before the skirts began to reduce and make way for the S-curve silhouette.
I’m trying to limit myself to only 17 posts on some of my favorite costumes which is proving to be ridiculously HARD. (It was going to be 20 posts but Tumblr has kindly informed me that I am at my daily limit STOP POSTING.)
Most of you will be wondering why I didn’t post some of the obvious costumes so I thought I would explain that really quickly: I’m not going to include many of the main 18th century movies (Duchess, Dangerous Liaisons, MA etc.) because I can’t choose just one. I’m throughly Regency’d out (blame my second year project) so no Regency either. I’ve also decided to stay clear of the Young Victoria because like MA I’ll end up posting every one of those costumes.
I’m going to *try* my hardest to stay away from movies that are crazy popular (LOTR, Star Wars 1,2,3, and Moulin Rouge I am looking at you!)
If you don’t see it chances are I love it but because I don’t want to be up all night I didn’t include it.